THE SECOND CLIMBING AND SKI EXPEDITION OF THE UNIVERSITY OF LJUBLJANA - GASHERBRUM 2004

The expedition is a project that besides the climbing achievements includes research work and the role of the University in promoting sport and sports lifestyle in general.

Climbing objectives

The purpose of the expedition under the leadership of Mr. Stojan Burnik is to reach the Base Camp below Gasherbrums after one week of walking on the Baltoro Glacier. After the acclimatisation all expedition's members will ascent Gasherbrum II (8035 m), then the descent to the Base Camp and afterwards ascent on Gasherbrum I (8068 m). Additional oxygen will not be used. The expedition starts at end of June 2004.

Crossing from summit of Gasherbrum II to summit of Gasherbrum I
Ms. Irena Mrak's objective is to make a direct crossing from the Gasherbrum II to the Gasherbrum I as the first woman in the world and as the fourth mountaineer in general. This is a very challenging venture that involves the exposure to high altitudes for a longer period of time.

Ski descent

Iztok Tomazin, Andrej Tercelj and Stojan Burnik intent to ski down from Gasherbrum II. Tomazin has in 1995 togedher with Marko Car as first team made ski descent from Gasherbrum I via Nort wall, which is still bellived to be the technically most demanding ski descent from an eight thounsand meters peak. Planned ski descent from Gasherbrum II would be a great conclusion for Slovenian achievements in this area, since no one has yet skied from both peaks.

New route

Iztok Tomazin's objective is to climb alone or with other climbers a new route in Gasherbrum I, if there will be time left after the G2 ascent and ski descent.




Research work

It is planned to measure and model the scientific discoveries in the following fields:- Physiology: measurement in the "altitude room" before and after the expedition and the impact of the high altitude training on some physiological parameters.- Anthropological measurements and nutrition at higher altitudes.
- Psychology: the connection of personal characteristics and the success on the expedition.
- Monitoring the heart beat on the expedtion.
- Collection of data for the study of the impact of tourism on the Baltoro Glacier.
The results of measurements will be published in scientific and professional journals.

News

- 3 August 2004: Andrej and Primož left the Base Camp on the 29th of July. They are already in Skardu. Other five members of the expedition (Irena, Iztok, Stojan, Franz in Sepp) left the Base Camp today. They will walk on the Baltoro glacier because there is so much new snow. Not enough porters are available because there are many trekkers from Italy - it is the 50th anniversary of the first K2 summit!

- 28 July 2004: Irena and Sepp also made it to the top of Gasherbrum II. They reached the summit yesterday afternoon, the 27th of July.

- 27 July 2004: Gasherbrum II summited yesterday

Stojan, Andrej and Franz summited Gasherbrum II (8035 m) yesterday, the 26th of July.

Later on, also Iztok made it to the top despite having kidney trouble.

Irena and Sepp also attempted to reach the summit, however they had to turn back yesterday. Today they are again trying to reach Gasherbrum II.

- 25 July 2004: Stojan, Irena, Franz and Sepp set up the Camp 4 at 7400 m. Tomorrow they will attempt the summit. Iztok and Andrej stayed at the Camp 3 and will go directly up to the summit. They have more chances because there is a path through the snow to the Camp 4 and fixing ropes. Primož decided to descent to the Base Camp.

- 25 July 2004: During the night Iztok, Irena, Andrej and Primož climbed up towards the summit, but they were forced to return to the Camp 3 because there was so much snow. Iztok and Andrej will try attempting the summit again this night. The others will set up the Camp 4 at 7400 m and then they will try going up to the summit.

- 24 July 2004: At midnight Iztok, Irena, Andrej and Primož will leave the Camp 3 and try to attempt the summit together with five other climbers.

- 23 July 2004: Iztok, Irena, Andrej and Primož managed to get to the Camp 2 in a snowstorm. Tomorrow they will try to wade through the snow, together with some climbers from Spain and Germany, attempting to reach the Camp 3 at 7000 m.

- 22 July 2004: Iztok, Irena, Andrej and Primož reached the Camp 1. It has been snowing heavily all day. There are avalanches all around. Most of the expeditions have already left Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I. The ascent to the mountain will be very difficult because of the abundance of newly fallen snow and unpredictable weather.

- 19 July 2004: Stojan, Franz in Sepp managed to bring to the Camp 2 the necessary equipment for the Camp 3. After that they were forced to return to the Camp 1 and then to the Base Camp during the storm. It is foreseen that the members of the expedition will depart for the summit on the 21st of July.

- 17 July 2004: Instead of coming back to the Base Camp, Stojan, Franz and Sepp decided to go to the Camp 2. It is expected that tomorrow they will set up the Camp 3 at somewhat below 7000 m, which will represent the starting point for the ascent to the summit.

- 16 July 2004: The weather forecast for the next days is not good and predicts very strong winds. Stojan, Franz and Sepp will return to the Base Camp from the Camp 1. In this circumstances skiing down from Gasherbrum II seems impossible because of the seracs. However, Iztok and Andrej are still trying to find out the possibility to ski. None of the 8000m+ summits near the Baltoro Glacier have been reached. For example, all expeditions even left Broad peak. Many expeditions left Gasherbrum II as well. Those who stayed are now joining their forces to work together on the mountain. Members of the expedition are now waiting for the weather to improve. Then they will try to reach the summit, although they are somewhat insufficiently acclimatised.

- 14 July 2004: All members of the expedition are in the Base Camp.

Die beiden Teilnehmer Sepp Stiller und Franz Seiler senden herzliche Gruesse an ihre Angehoeringen und Kollegen. Sie bedanken sich dafuer, dass ihren die Teilna an der Expedition ermoeglicht wurde.

Fuer die Materielle Unterstuetzung bedanken Sie sich bei: Auracher Drucktechnik, Salewa, Dynafit, Carrera, Bergsport Muehlbauer, Foto Sauter Rosenheim, Kodak, SportOptik Bucher, Adidas, Euroschirm Goebel, Molkereivertrieb Missbach und bei den privaten Spenden.

- 13 July 2004: Iztok, Primož, Andrej and Irena together with five Spanish climbers advanced 200 m. They brought 350 m of fixing ropes, which will make the passage through very dangerous seracs easier. Andrej and Primož descented to the Camp 1. Tomorrow morning they intend to return to the Base Camp. Irena and Iztok are still at the Camp 2. There is a snowstorm outside. The descent is forseen during the night. Because the weather forecast predicts worsening of the conditions, they will all descent to the Base Camp and intend to stay there for some days.

- 12 July 2004: The Camp 2 was set up at 6400 m. The conditions on the mountain are not good. There is a lot of new snow. This year nobody has been higher than the Camp 2. Iztok, Primož, Andrej and Irena will sleep in the Camp 2. Next day they will try to find the passages between the seracs on the way to the Camp 3. Other members of the expedition returned to the Base Camp.

- 9 July 2004: All members of the expedition set up the Camp 1 at 6000 m on 8th of July. They spent the night in Camp 1. The ascent on the glacier is long and difficult. Next morning they descented to the Base Camp. It was showing during their descent. When the weather gets better, they will go up to the mountain again. This year Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II have not been climbed yet because there is so much snow. The first objective of the expedition is to climb Gasherbrum II. The conditions here are difficult as well because of the seracs.

- 6 July 2004: The members of the expedition reached the Base Camp.